Types of Stitches

1What is a stitch?

A stitch is one loop of thread that goes into the cloth and comes out again. A row of stitches can join two pieces of cloth (a seam), hold an edge in place, stop cloth from fraying, or decorate it. Some stitches are temporary: you take them out later. Most are permanent: they stay.

2Six hand stitches

• Running stitch: small stitches and gaps of the same size in a straight line. It is quick and is used for simple seams, mending and gathering cloth.
• Tacking (also called basting): long stitches with short gaps. It holds pieces of cloth together for a short time, like pins, and is pulled out when the real sewing is done. It is temporary.
• Backstitch: stitches that touch end to end, like a line drawn with a pen. It is the strongest hand stitch, used for seams that must not split and for fixing thread at the start and end of your sewing.
• Overcasting: slanting stitches that wrap over a raw (cut) edge to stop it fraying (losing threads).
• Hemming stitch: tiny slanting stitches that hold a folded edge, such as the bottom of a skirt or trousers. Only very small dots of thread show on the front.
• Blanket stitch: upright stitches joined by a thread along the edge. It finishes edges of blankets and mats and is also used to decorate.

3How to sew running stitch and backstitch

Running stitch

1. Knot your thread. Push the needle up from the back of the cloth at 1, so the knot stays hidden at the back.
2. Go down at 2, a small step along the line (about 3 to 5 mm).
3. Come up at 3, leaving a gap the same size as the stitch. Go down at 4, and so on.
4. When you are confident, pick up two or three stitches on the needle before you pull the thread through. Keep the stitches straight and the same size.

Backstitch

1. Knot your thread and come up at 1, one stitch length from the start of your line.
2. Go back down at 2, at the start of the line (or at the end of the last stitch).
3. Under the cloth, move forward and come up at 3, one stitch length ahead of 1.
4. Go back down at 1, touching the last stitch. Keep going: back one, forward two.

Finishing: on the back of the cloth, make two tiny backstitches on top of each other, then cut the thread, leaving a short tail.

4Make a stitch sampler

A sampler is a practice cloth that shows different stitches, like a page of handwriting practice.

1. Cut a piece of old cotton cloth about 15 cm by 20 cm.
2. With chalk or pencil and a ruler, draw five lines, 2 cm apart.
3. Sew one row of each stitch along the lines: running stitch, tacking, backstitch, and blanket stitch along the edge. Overcast one raw edge.
4. Use a thread colour that stands out, so you can see your stitches clearly.
5. Label each row on a strip of paper and pin it on.

No cloth yet? Practise on card. Use a pin to punch holes 5 mm apart along a pencil line, and "sew" with wool and a large, blunt needle.

5Stitches that decorate

Stitches can be art. Draw a simple motif, such as an imigongo zigzag or a leaf, on a handkerchief or a cloth bag, and sew along the lines with backstitch in a bright colour. Running stitch in rows makes stripes, and blanket stitch makes a pretty edge.

Try it yourself

Try each one first, then tap Show answer to check.