Blanket, herringbone, satin and stem stitch

1Why this matters

Look at the edge of a fleece blanket, the hem inside a wool school skirt, the name embroidered on a club badge, or the flowers on a pillowcase sold at a craft fair. Each uses one of the four stitches in this lesson. Some are practical (they hold an edge or a hem), some are decorative, and some are both.

For each stitch you will learn what it looks like, how to work it, and what it is used for.

2Blanket stitch

Blanket stitch is a row of upright stitches along the edge of the fabric, joined by a thread that runs along the edge. It strengthens and decorates the edges of thick fabrics.

1. Fasten the thread and bring the needle out at the edge of the fabric.
2. Working from left to right, push the needle in from the front about 5 mm in from the edge and 5 mm to the right.
3. Bring the needle point out at the edge, directly above, with the thread passing under the needle point.
4. Pull through gently so the thread lies along the edge. Repeat, keeping the depth and spacing equal.

Uses: edges of blankets and fleece, appliqué shapes, felt items, and needle books. Worked with the stitches packed tightly together, the same stitch becomes buttonhole stitch.

3Herringbone stitch

Herringbone stitch is a row of diagonal stitches between two parallel lines, crossing each other near each line, like the bones of a herring fish.

1. Working from left to right, bring the needle out on the lower line.
2. Cross diagonally up to the right and take a small stitch from right to left on the upper line.
3. Cross diagonally down to the right and take a small stitch from right to left on the lower line.
4. Repeat, keeping the stitches evenly spaced.

Uses: holding hems in thick fabrics (such as wool) and stretchy fabrics, because the crossed stitches can move a little with the fabric; when hemming, catch only one or two threads of the garment so the stitch hardly shows on the right side. It is also used for decoration.

4Satin stitch

Satin stitch is a series of straight stitches laid close together, side by side, so that they cover a shape completely and look smooth and shiny.

• Outline the shape first with small back stitches, then cover the outline too. This gives a crisp, raised edge.
• Keep every stitch parallel, lying right next to the last one without overlapping, and pulled with the same, gentle tension. Use a hoop to keep the fabric tight.
• Keep each stitch shorter than about 1 cm. Longer stitches catch on things and sag. For a bigger shape, divide it into smaller parts.

Uses: petals, leaves, dots, letters and badges.

5Stem stitch

Stem stitch is a line of slanting stitches, each overlapping the one before by half its length, so the line looks like a twisted rope.

1. Working from left to right along the line, bring the needle out at the start.
2. Take the needle in one stitch length along the line, and bring it out halfway back, beside the end of the previous stitch.
3. Keep the thread on the same side of the needle every time, for example always below it.
4. On tight curves, make the stitches shorter.

Uses: flower stems, outlines and lettering. It is one of the oldest embroidery stitches: it was used about 950 years ago on the Bayeux Tapestry.

Worked example: embroidering a handkerchief

Uwase is decorating a square cotton handkerchief with sides of 30 cm as a gift. She plans: blanket stitch round all four edges, her grandmother's initials in stem stitch, and a small flower in satin stitch.

Step 1: blanket stitches round the edge. Perimeter = 4 × 30 = 120 cm = 1,200 mm. With stitches 5 mm apart: 1,200 ÷ 5 = 240 stitches.

Step 2: choosing the stitch for each part.

• Edges: blanket stitch, because it both neatens and decorates an edge.
• Letters: stem stitch, because it follows curves smoothly and gives a clear line.
• Flower: satin stitch for the petals, because it fills small shapes completely; each petal is under 1 cm wide, so the stitches will not be too long.

Step 3: thread. Two or three strands of stranded embroidery cotton in a colour that contrasts with the handkerchief, worked in a hoop.

Practice

Solution. (a) Herringbone. (b) Satin stitch. (c) Stem stitch. (d) Blanket stitch.

Solution. Its crossed diagonal stitches can move a little as the fabric stretches, so the thread does not snap. A straight line of stitches would break when the fabric stretched.

Solution. The stitches will be about 3 cm long, far more than 1 cm. They will sag and catch on things. He should divide the leaf into two halves along its centre vein and fill each half, or use a different filling stitch.

Solution. Perimeter = 4 × 25 = 100 cm = 1,000 mm. 1,000 ÷ 5 = 200 stitches.