Sewing materials: fabric, thread and notions

1Why this matters

Tools are used again and again, but sewing materials are used up in the work: the fabric, the thread, and the buttons, zips and tapes that finish a garment. The market stalls that sell these small items are sometimes called haberdashery stalls.

Choosing the right materials makes sewing easier and the result stronger. A beginner who practises on slippery satin with thick thread and a fine needle will struggle; the same beginner on firm cotton with the right thread and needle will learn quickly. This lesson explains how to choose fabric, thread and the small items called notions.

2Fabric for learning to sew

• Firm, medium-weight, plain cotton (such as calico or poplin) is best for practice: it does not slip, it holds a crease, and the stitches show clearly.
• Loosely woven, even-weave fabric (such as hessian or embroidery canvas) is good for learning embroidery, because you can count the threads to keep stitches even.
• Avoid at first: slippery fabrics (satin, chiffon), stretchy knits, and very thick fabrics.

3Grain and sides of the fabric

• The selvedge is the firm edge along each side of the cloth as it comes from the loom; it does not fray.
• The straight grain runs parallel to the selvedge; fabric is strongest and stretches least in this direction.
• The bias runs diagonally, at 45° to the selvedge; fabric stretches most in this direction.
• The right side is the side meant to be seen; the wrong side is the inside.

4Threads

5Choosing and using thread

• Fibre: choose a thread that suits the fabric and its washing; polyester thread is strong and suits most fabrics.
• Colour: for sewing, choose thread one shade darker than the fabric, because thread looks lighter once it is sewn in. For embroidery, choose colours that contrast.
• Thickness: the thread must pass easily through the needle's eye, and the needle must be fine enough for the fabric.
• Working length: cut a length of about 45 to 50 cm, roughly from your fingertips to your elbow. A longer thread tangles, knots and wears thin as it is pulled through the fabric again and again.
• Cutting: cut thread at a slant with sharp scissors; never bite or break it, which leaves a fluffy end that will not go through the eye.

6Notions: the small finishing items

• Fasteners: buttons (sew-through buttons with 2 or 4 holes, and shank buttons with a loop underneath), press studs, hooks and eyes, zips, and hook-and-loop tape.
• Elastic: for waistbands and cuffs.
• Tapes and trims: bias binding (a strip cut on the bias, used to bind edges), ribbon, lace, piping and braid.
• Interfacing: a stiffening fabric placed inside collars, cuffs and waistbands.
• Decorations: beads and sequins.

Worked example: cutting practice samples

The Home Science teacher buys 1 m of cotton that is 1.5 m wide, for 2,000 Frw. She wants practice pieces 20 cm by 25 cm for a class of 32 students.

Step 1: work in centimetres. The piece is 100 cm long and 150 cm wide.

Step 2: try one way. Along the 100 cm: 100 ÷ 20 = 5 pieces. Along the 150 cm: 150 ÷ 25 = 6 pieces. Total 5 × 6 = 30 pieces.

Step 3: try the other way. Along the 100 cm: 100 ÷ 25 = 4. Along the 150 cm: 150 ÷ 20 = 7.5, but only 7 whole pieces fit. Total 4 × 7 = 28 pieces. The first way is better.

Step 4: check against the class. 30 pieces is 2 short of 32, so she must buy a little more fabric. Each piece costs about 2,000 ÷ 30 ≈ 67 Frw.

Practice

Solution. A tool is used again and again (needle, scissors, tape measure); a material is used up in the work (fabric, thread, buttons, elastic).

Solution. Firm cotton does not slip or stretch, so it is easy to hold and stitch evenly, and the stitches show clearly. Satin slides about, frays and shows every mistake.

Solution. The long thread will tangle and knot, and it will wear thin and fluffy as it is pulled through the fabric many times. A length of about 45 to 50 cm is best.

Solution. Way 1: 60 ÷ 15 = 4 and 100 ÷ 20 = 5, so 20 pieces. Way 2: 60 ÷ 20 = 3 and 100 ÷ 15 = 6.7, so 6 whole pieces, giving 18. The answer is 20 pieces.