Sewing Basic Stitches
Senior 1 · Home Science
Sewing Basic Stitches
Lesson 3 of 5
22 min
A split seam in a school shirt, a hem that has come down, a torn pocket: most everyday repairs need only two hand stitches, running stitch and back stitch. Running stitch is the basic stitch on which all other stitches are built. Back stitch is the strongest of the basic hand stitches, strong enough to sew a seam where there is no machine.
This lesson shows you how to start and finish a thread securely, and how to work running stitch, tacking and back stitch neatly and evenly.
Running stitch is made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular distances, so that the stitches and the spaces between them are equal. You can load several stitches onto the needle before pulling the thread through.
Tacking is a long running stitch, about 1 cm long, used to hold pieces in place temporarily before permanent sewing. Use a contrasting colour so it is easy to see, do not fasten it too firmly, and pull it out when the permanent stitching is done.
In back stitch, each stitch goes backwards to meet the end of the one before, so the stitches touch end to end in an unbroken line that looks like machine stitching.
On the wrong side, each stitch is twice as long and the stitches overlap, which is what makes back stitch strong. Keep stitches small and even, about 2 to 4 mm.
Byiringiro must sew a line 24 cm long.
(a) Running stitch with 4 mm stitches and 4 mm gaps. Each stitch and its gap use 8 mm. 24 cm = 240 mm, so 240 ÷ 8 = 30 stitches. The thread goes along the top and back along the underneath in turn, so it covers about the length of the line: about 24 cm, plus a little for starting and finishing.
(b) Back stitch with 3 mm stitches. 240 ÷ 3 = 80 stitches. On the right side the thread covers the line once, and on the wrong side twice (each back stitch is double length), so it uses about 3 × 24 = 72 cm of thread.
(c) Plan. A working thread is about 50 cm, so the back-stitched line needs two threads. He should finish the first thread securely on the wrong side and start the second with two small stitches, so the join does not show.
Tip
Memory hook: running goes in-out-in-out; back stitch goes "up ahead, down behind". In exam answers, give the stitch, its use and one reason: running is quick but weak; back stitch is slow but the strongest hand stitch because its stitches overlap on the back.
Give two ways to start a thread securely, and say which is neater.
Solution. Tie a small knot in the end, or make two small stitches on top of each other on the wrong side. The small stitches are neater and cannot pull through a loose fabric the way a knot can.
Why is back stitch stronger than running stitch?
Solution. In back stitch the stitches touch end to end on the right side and overlap on the wrong side, so there are no gaps and the thread locks itself. Running stitch has gaps, so the seam can pull open.
Why is tacking done in a contrasting colour and not fastened firmly?
Solution. Tacking is temporary. A contrasting colour makes it easy to see and remove, and loose fastening lets it be pulled out quickly without damaging the fabric.
How many running stitches of 5 mm with 5 mm gaps are needed for a line 30 cm long?
Solution. Each stitch and gap use 10 mm. 30 cm = 300 mm. 300 ÷ 10 = 30 stitches.
Umutoni's running stitches are 2 mm, then 8 mm, then 4 mm long. Why does this matter, and how can she improve?
Solution. Uneven stitches look untidy and make a weak, puckered seam. She can draw a chalk line, load several equal stitches onto the needle at once, and practise on a firm, even-weave fabric where she can count threads.
Remember
Sources and credits
This lesson adapts CC BY-SA material and is shared under CC BY-SA 4.0.
