Tie and Dye a Fabric
Senior 3 · Fine Arts
Tie and Dye a Fabric
Lesson 4 of 4
25 min
The stall in the photograph belongs to the Centre for Entrepreneurship of a polytechnic in Lagos State, Nigeria. Its tie-dyed cloths hang at the front, where customers see them first: green and black stripes, yellow and brown crumple patterns, blue clouds. Behind them are sandals, bags and beadwork. Resist-dyeing is an ancient craft, but it is also a modern business, in fashion and furnishing all over the world. In this final lesson you will plan a finished tie-dye piece for a real use, build it up in layers of colour, and finish it to a standard that someone would want to buy or wear.
Definition
Design plan (dye plan): a drawing that records the folding, binding, colours and order of dyeing for a piece.
Layering: dyeing in two or more stages, re-binding the cloth between them, so later colours overlap earlier ones.
Batching: leaving dyed fabric covered and damp so that the dye has time to bond with the fibre.
Colourfast: describes dyed fabric that does not lose colour when it is washed.
Value addition: increasing the worth of a product by working on it, such as turning a plain T-shirt into a designed tie-dye garment.
Start from a purpose, as you did for the poster and the craft object: who will use it, and how? A headwrap, a cushion cover, a T-shirt for a school event and a wall hanging need different sizes, patterns and colours. Your design plan should show:
| Step | What to do | Why |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Prepare | wash the cotton; soak in fixative if your dye needs it; wring until damp | removes sizing; helps the dye bond |
| 2. Fold and bind | follow your plan; bind tightly | creates the resist |
| 3. Mix dyes | with gloves and a mask, following the instructions; label bottles | correct strength; safety |
| 4. Apply | squeeze or dip, light colours first; check the back of the bundle | even colour; clean borders |
| 5. Batch | cover with plastic and leave for the time the dye instructions give (often several hours or overnight) | lets the dye bond, so it is colourfast |
| 6. Rinse | rinse in cold water until it runs nearly clear; remove bindings; rinse again; wash in warm soapy water on its own | removes loose dye that would stain |
| 7. Dry and finish | dry in the shade; iron; trim threads; hem raw edges if needed | sun can fade colours; a neat finish adds value |
For more complex designs, dye in stages. Dye and rinse the first, lighter colour; then re-fold and re-bind the cloth in a new way, and dye a second, darker colour. Where the second dye falls on the first, the colours mix (yellow under blue gives green); where it falls on white, it shows its own colour; where the new bindings protect the cloth, the first stage shows through. Always dye light colours before dark ones: a dark first layer cannot be made lighter by a second dye.
| Area | Products | Design points |
|---|---|---|
| Fashion | T-shirts, dresses, shirts, headwraps, scarves | place the pattern on the body: a spiral centred on the chest, stripes running down a dress |
| Home | cushion covers, curtains, table runners, bed covers | colourfast dyes; patterns matching the room |
| Accessories | bags, purses, hair ties, book covers | small repeats suit small items |
| Art and events | wall hangings, banners, matching T-shirts for a club or event | bold patterns readable from a distance |
Tie-dye is a practical way to add value with little equipment. A plain T-shirt becomes a one-of-a-kind product. To sell, you need good quality, consistent colours, a fair price and clear care instructions: "Wash separately in cold water for the first few washes; dry in the shade."
Worked example 1: pricing a T-shirt
Keza buys a plain cotton T-shirt for Frw 2,500. The dye she uses costs about Frw 600 per shirt, and soda ash and rubber bands about Frw 200. She adds 30% to her costs to set the price. What is her cost, and what price should she charge? (Illustrative prices.)
Cost: , so Frw 3,300.
Price: , so about Frw 4,300.
She should also think about her time and what customers will pay, and check prices of similar items in the market.
Worked example 2: why did the colours wash out?
Muhire's T-shirt looked bright when he unwrapped it, but after the first wash the colours were pale and the white areas were stained pink.
Diagnosis. The dye did not bond well: he may have skipped the fixative, used a shirt with polyester in it, or rinsed it too soon without batching. The pink staining came from loose dye that was not rinsed out before washing.
Fix. Use 100% cotton and the fixative the dye needs, batch for the full time, and rinse in cold water until clear before washing it on its own in warm water.
<em>How Adire Is Made in Abeokuta</em>, from the Adire With Adebisi channel. Follow each stage of the process, from preparing the cloth to drying, and compare it with the steps in the table above.
Warning
Dye waste. Do not pour large amounts of used dye into streams or onto growing plants. Follow your teacher's instructions for disposal, and use leftover dye on test pieces.
No bleach. Some artists remove colour with bleach, but its fumes are harmful and it can damage skin and eyes. Do not use it in school projects.
Tip
Plan, bind, light then dark, batch, rinse till clear. Then dry in the shade and finish neatly.
Practice
What is batching, and why is it necessary?
Why must you dye light colours before dark ones when layering?
A cloth is dyed yellow, re-bound and dyed red. What colour appears (a) where red falls on yellow; (b) where red falls on white; (c) under the second bindings, on yellow areas?
A headwrap costs Frw 1,800 in fabric and Frw 500 in dye and materials. What is the price with a 40% mark-up?
Write care instructions for a tie-dyed cushion cover, and explain one of them.
Evaluate this plan for school event T-shirts: "Each pupil folds and dyes in any way they like, with any colours." What problems might arise, and how would you improve it?
Final project. Make a design plan for a tie-dyed item for a real use. Produce it using at least two techniques or two layers, finish it, and present it with your plan, samples and a short evaluation.
1. Leaving dyed fabric covered and damp for the time the dye needs so it can bond with the fibre; without it, colours wash out.
2. A dark dye cannot be made lighter by a second dye; light colours can be changed by darker ones over them.
3. (a) orange; (b) red; (c) yellow.
4. Cost ; price , about Frw 3,200.
5. For example: "Wash separately in cold water for the first few washes" (loose dye may still come out and stain other clothes); "Dry in the shade" (sunlight fades the colours).
6. The shirts would not match, some may be muddy or badly placed, and quality would vary. Better: agree one design plan (technique, colours that blend, pattern placement), make samples first, and check each shirt against the plan.
7. Check: a design plan with sketch, method and colours; a finished item with at least two techniques or layers; neat finish; evaluation against the plan.
Compare your finished piece with your plan. Which parts matched your prediction, and what would you change if you made it again to sell?
Further reading
Sources and credits
